Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

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Cliff Hanson
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Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#1 Post by Cliff Hanson »

What material was used in the engine compartment on the rear horizontal shelf behind the engine, if any, on a "C"?
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Rainer Cooney
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#2 Post by Rainer Cooney »

Cliff, Your car is obviously a Karmann so it should have a one piece woven mat with a thin coating on the top surface. The material is essentially the same as what's in your trunk but with a coating.

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Cliff Hanson
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#3 Post by Cliff Hanson »

Rainer Cooney wrote:Cliff, Your car is obviously a Karmann so it should have a one piece woven mat with a thin coating on the top surface. The material is essentially the same as what's in your trunk but with a coating.
Rainer, Is the coating similar to the dual layer material used on the side panels (see previous photo) that is attached over the woven material, like the rear panel (I don't have a photo) in the engine compartment?

BTW, how could you tell it was a Karmann?
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Vic Skirmants
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#4 Post by Vic Skirmants »

"BTW, how could you tell it was a Karmann?"
Good question; Rainer, please tell us. I'm still learning.

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C J Murray
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#5 Post by C J Murray »

I think he saw the metal tabs that are holding the insulation at the bottom.
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Rainer Cooney
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#6 Post by Rainer Cooney »

CJ is correct. Karmann used a hardboard paper insulation with a jute backing that was held in with the tabs. Reutter used an embossed asphalt paper insulation that was glued in . To make the missing piece and finish the job use some Mercedes Benz " anti-squeek" and coat it with either Wurth SKS or Winzer GGU waterbased undercoating. This can be thinned up to 10% with water to get it smooth.

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Phil Planck
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#7 Post by Phil Planck »

So, what is a Ruetter supposed to have on that horizontal rear shelf?
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#8 Post by C J Murray »

Rainer-What supplier has the MB material? Does the firewall, side walls, rear wall, and shelf all get the same stuff and the same thickness?
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#9 Post by Preston Brown »

Rainer Cooney wrote:CJ is correct. Karmann used a hardboard paper insulation with a jute backing that was held in with the tabs. Reutter used an embossed asphalt paper insulation that was glued in .
Do you think this is why Karmann cars (like mine!) got much more rusty in the engine compartment than Reutter ones? That jute stuff just holds moisture.

Of course, the jute and hardboard engine insulation wasn't available (to my knowledge) when I restored that part of the car 5-6 years ago; I had to go with the Reutter-style stuff from Stoddard.
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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#10 Post by Rainer Cooney »

Mercedes insulation can be had at a Mercedes dealer. Part # 000 983 29 91 sold by the meter. This material is correct for all T6 trunks as well as Karmann interiors, front splash aprons, above the transaxle and the rear shelf of the engine compartment. Reutter used this in the trunk only and the embossed asphalt product in the remainder of the car.

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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#11 Post by Dan Kalinski »

Since this discussion is on the insulation in the engine compartment, what is the "BEST" adhesive to use when installing the insulation and do the insulation panels need to be heated up for fitting?

Thanks.

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Re: Engine Compartment Sound Absorption Material

#12 Post by Eric Wahlberg »

Dan,

Prefit all the panels before you begin gluing them into place. Some trimmiming may be needed. Be certain to cut out space for the rear deck lid release cable to feed through. I use tubes of Liquid Nails that fit into a caulking gun. Apply a good amount of Liquid Nails to a panel being careful to keep the adhesive away from the edges so it does not ooze out when pressed into place. A heat gun and dead blow hammer should be use so the pieces can be formed to fit in place properly. Do not rush this process and neatness does pay off. Give the adhesive under the panels a day or two to totally dry. Paint the sound deadening panels with semi-gloss black urethane paint.
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