Suspension overhaul, camber, caster and toe

[Vic Skirmants]

Charts are a wonderful thing. And totally useless, as Al points out, if the link is not to perfect factory specs. With our race cars, re-machining the link at an angle for negative camber, guarantees the link is not to factory specs. So you put the top link pin and shims in place, install, snug the top adjustment, and stuff however many shims it takes to fill the gap on the bottom. Put the rest of the total number of shims needed on the outside. Simple.

[Ashley Page]

Vic, do you start with a link pin bushing with a larger OD or do you machine a new ID on a blank bushing with the standard OD? I assume you are changing the angle of the link pin bushing holes?

[Vic Skirmants]

The bushing holes get bored over-size because of the change in angle. Then the faces get machined to be square to the holes. In short; the bushing gets larger and shorter. Therefore more shims are required to keep the adjustment in the proper range.

[karl schuenemann]

If the system can "see" the distance between a point close to the center of the front wheel drum assembly, and the beam from the rear as it passes that point ,then make that distance equal side to side it would assure the rear being very close to centered to the front end, rather than where the front wheels happen to be directed.I would guess this is how a four wheel system opperates?You would actually complete the rear adj. and then center the front wheels,box and steering wheel to that.I did this with a string line, lumber and time many years ago,worked well for street use. Happy Holidays to all.

[William J Miller]

thanks for the info. appreciated