I replaced my old cracked boots with the cheaper split-type boots a few years ago with no problems. I ran them for many miles with no leaks. When I installed them I was running normal gear oil (made from dead dinosaurs I think) and used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV silicone to seal them up.
After the transmission tear down and rebuild, I purchased new split-type boots and installed them the same way, being sure that the screws where the boot is sealed is horizontal as well. They now leak quite a bit. The only two variables are 1: I'm now running Swepco 202. and 2: I used some new Permatex "Gear Oil sealer" instead of the Black RTV. Is Swepco oil more prone to eating sealants, or is this gear oil sealer just junk? Any ideas or suggestions on this?
At least with blue gear oil and purple brake fluid my leaks are color coded
Stephen Domenicone, LTJG, USN
VP-30, NAS Jax,
Jacksonville, FL 32299
Steve, When I put the transmission back in my Speedster I had the same issue with the blue 201. I reread all the articles and posts and have eliminated my leaks but it took several attempts. I changed to larger washers and was very careful to ensure that when tightening the end bands that you pull the seams together as you shorten the bands. KTF, Bill
Bill Tate
Drive your Tub for improved mental health.
Steve Domenicone wrote:I replaced my old cracked boots with the cheaper split-type boots a few years ago with no problems. I ran them for many miles with no leaks. When I installed them I was running normal gear oil (made from dead dinosaurs I think) and used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV silicone to seal them up.
After the transmission tear down and rebuild, I purchased new split-type boots and installed them the same way, being sure that the screws where the boot is sealed is horizontal as well. They now leak quite a bit. The only two variables are 1: I'm now running Swepco 202. and 2: I used some new Permatex "Gear Oil sealer" instead of the Black RTV. Is Swepco oil more prone to eating sealants, or is this gear oil sealer just junk? Any ideas or suggestions on this?
At least with blue gear oil and purple brake fluid my leaks are color coded
The seams should be placed in the 10:30 or 1:30 position and not at vertical or horizontal. Also be sure not to over tighten the little screws and nuts. I like just snug with a drop of locktite. It's also good practice to load the suspension a bit to get the axles in a neutral position.
Thje split seam should be around a 45 degree angle forward for ease of the screws being snugged up and NOT crushing the seam. The clamps should be directly over the split seams to pull them together when tightening.
Yes, the axles should be jacked up (if a lift isn't available) near horizontal as possible to relax the boot and the large end should be clamped 1st--make sure the flanged end is fully installed to the sideplate flange/lip; then locate the small end in a relaxed state and clamp it.
Hopefully, you don't have any seapage from the sideplate(s), but using Permatex's Stop Leak (by Loctite) will correct that--follow the directions on the can.
Steve, now that your trans is assembled, this message is too late for you but is a heads-up for everyone else. During a rebuild, while the axle tubes are off, ALWAYS replace the axle boots with the original one piece boots and correct strap clamps. Then you won't have to worry about leaks. Gerry McCarthy showed me during my first rebuild how the boots can be installed over the inner end of the tube, without having to remove the bearing housing/shock mount off the end. It involves a screwdriver, some silicone paste, and the correct technique. I have installed at least a hundred, and only ripped one.
I just recently installed the split boot type and so far haven't had any leaks, however, I would have preferred to install solid boots as were original. I have never seen the "over the tube" installation and being new to the 356 game, I'm having difficulty visualizing how this might be done. For you gentlemen in the biz, it would really be helpful to us DIY's if you could have someone with a camcorder standing by to document your technique (something that might be posted on Youtube???).....I realize you're in the repair business to make a living and don't have time for "Hollywood" foolishness.......just a thought???
MARC MORRISON
1989 Porsche 911 (3.2) coupe
1964 Porsche 356C coupe
The method Jeff is referring to, requires the tube to be off the trans. The boot is stretched over the inner spherical end. First, the boot needs to be turned inside-out.
Be sure any sharp edges have been removed from the edges of the "bell". I use cream-type hand cleaner as a lubricant. Two long, strong, skinny screwdrivers are then required to stretch the small end of the boot over the "bell'. It's kind of like birthing an elephant; scary as hell, because you just know that the boot will split. Major sigh of relief when it finishes slipping over the bell, and doesn't tear. Then you have to turn the boot back to right-side out. I don't recommend it for the first-timer.
Hi Vic and Jeff
Use only OEM VW boots with the strech method. there are some aftermarket ones that may last longer but tear. they have to be done on Jon's Matra press by taking the upright off.
jacques
HA! Jacques, I am sourcing my boots from California; way better than VW OEM.
Haven't torn one yet, and, they certainly last longer.
Something to do with American rubber versus German rubber.
Marc Morrison wrote:I would have preferred to install solid boots as were original. I have never seen the "over the tube" installation... I'm having difficulty visualizing how this might be done.
Here are some photos of my solid axel boot replacement exercise. I had trouble with the single screw driver approach due probably to my timidity with the first time project. I found two motorcycle tire tools from the 70's which solved the problem for me. I tried this with the $5 boots in case I failed. It's amazing how much stretch those have.
Maybe too many photos but sometimes too much info is a good thing.
From the factory Volkswagen workshop manual, regarding split boots. While horizontal splits are best for minimizing strain on the joint, pointing them angled above horizontal, as Mike and Dick suggest, places them further above the oil level. Both ways have merit.
"Permatex Stop Leak" by Loctite sounds just the Job for sealing Our continually leaking side plates, without the need of a strip down. See if We can get some over here.
