split axle boots

[Mitch Covington]

For changing the transaxle oil, or for topping it up, I merely drive the car's rear wheels up on a couple of staggered 2 x 6s on each side (total height equal to a 4 x 6 on each side). I can then slide under and drain or top off the fluid easily. The axles are kept level this way, so you won't overfill.

(I know. A lift is nice, but old habits are hard to break and I've been rolling around under cars for too long to quit now....)

Cheers,
Wes

I thought about that, but you'd need enough length to get all 4 wheels off the ground level, right? Yeah, that would beat going to Super Lube anyway!

Another alternative is to just drain the oil completely, and refill with the exact required amount? I think that was mentioned above, don't remember the exact amount.

[Wes Bender]

The 3" or so of being off level fore and aft isn't enough to worry about. You don't need to put the front wheels on blocks too.

And the rolling around under cars is much better now that I discovered concrete.

I'm not sure what Super Lube is, but I would NEVER take a 356 to any of the fast lube outfits. They can turn your 100 point concours car into a daily driver in seconds.....

Cheers,
Wes

[Mitch Covington]

The 3" or so of being off level fore and aft isn't enough to worry about. You don't need to put the front wheels on blocks too.

And the rolling around under cars is much better now that I discovered concrete.

I'm not sure what Super Lube is, but I would NEVER take a 356 to any of the fast lube outfits. They can turn your 100 point concours car into a daily driver in seconds.....

Cheers,
Wes

Thanks Wes! I already have 2x12 ramps that will accomodate one set of wheels, so will top of my sweetie tonight.

Last question... I don't know what's in there already, does it matter if I top it off with a different kind of oil as long as it's 90 wt?

thanks again. I love this forum!
mitch

[Vic Skirmants]

Yes, you can mix trans oils.

[Mitch Covington]

Split axle boots are on, and not leaking so far after 5-6 miles. I just went ahead and changed the entire trans fluid, letting it drain overnight. I had the rear end on shallow ramps constructed of 2x12s so that I could fit under the car to refill with axles level. Never again will I attempt filling the case with a hand pump, it took forever. I'd go with the IV method mentioned above, or one of the custom pressure tank methods... anything would be better unless you're just topping it off.

Thanks for all of the help!

[Al Zim]

Your leak is not due to improper instillation of the axle boots. It is due to the ability for Swepco 201 to migrate through every little crevasse. One of my cars with a factory original transmission has Swepco leak out the oil breather on top of the transmission.
Swepco is a mineral based oil, it just flows extremely well. Put a drip pan under the car and wash the transmission two or three times a year at the car wash.
When installing the split axle boots the axle should be perpendicular to the transmission (straight) We never use any sealant. Put your screws through the rubber with a washer on each side. tighten TILL THE RUBBER COMES TOGETHER NO MORE. Then with set of diagonal cutting pliers I gently distort the threads by the nut so they will not come loose.
Get new good clamps put the large clamp on the inside, making sure the screw is facing down. The seam should be at 10:30 or 1: 30 as already mentioned. On the outer end push the axle boot about a half inch or so toward the center of the car and tighten the clamp. You should not distort the rubber when tightening the clamp.
In Southern California plan or replacing the boots every 5 years. al zim AND try not to breath the air.

[Mitch Covington]

Your leak is not due to improper instillation of the axle boots.

My boots aren't leaking, but I didn't want to wait for the Swepco to come by mail, just used the FLAPS variety of 90w oil.

It is due to the ability for Swepco 201 to migrate through every little crevasse. One of my cars with a factory original transmission has Swepco leak out the oil breather on top of the transmission. Swepco is a mineral based oil, it just flows extremely well. Put a drip pan under the car and wash the transmission two or three times a year at the car wash.

I don't mind a small leak, and if you think it's worth changing to Swepco 201 I will not even wait until I need to change it. Will I notice a difference in shifting, or just a reduction in wear over a long time?

When installing the split axle boots the axle should be perpendicular to the transmission (straight)

Jacked my axles up with the car on the lift, see photo above.

We never use any sealant.

Good, I didn't. I assumed the instructions that came with the boot would say so if sealant was needed.

Put your screws through the rubber with a washer on each side. tighten TILL THE RUBBER COMES TOGETHER NO MORE. Then with set of diagonal cutting pliers I gently distort the threads by the nut so they will not come loose.

I did tighten them too much at first, it's easy to do, but saw the seam separating and backed them off a little. Didn't think about distorting the threads.

Get new good clamps put the large clamp on the inside, making sure the screw is facing down. The seam should be at 10:30 or 1: 30 as already mentioned. On the outer end push the axle boot about a half inch or so toward the center of the car and tighten the clamp. You should not distort the rubber when tightening the clamp.

Good clamps came with the boots. I am very happy with the quality of the boots, they just have a good quality feel to them, and came right away in the mail. I got them from some shop named Zims, maybe you've heard of them?

I didn't face the screws downward though, but did orient the seam as you suggest here.

In Southern California plan or replacing the boots every 5 years. al zim

Does the dry air in CA dry them out faster than the humidity in Florida rots them? I just got a transmission overhaul in a well known shop near Tallahassee about 6ish years ago, and the boots were rotten and split when I recently put my car up on the lift. For what I paid for that work, I would hope he changed the boots!

Thank you VERY much for the words of wisdom. It's a luxury having such a quality knowledge base at my fingertips.

[Dave Wildrick]

Mitch wrote:
[I don't mind a small leak, and if you think it's worth changing to Swepco 201 I will not even wait until I need to change it. Will I notice a difference in shifting, or just a reduction in wear over a long time?]

Both my C coupes have Swepco in the transaxle. I saw no difference in performance when I switched to that.
Both transaxles now leak more than before.
But the advantage for me is that Swepco is blue, whereas engine oil is not, which allows me to tell what's leaking.

[Brian R Adams]

Bumping this old but good thread:

I switched to Swepco in my tranny. I had to replace an axle boot recently. Im now getting a small amount of seepage at the outboard end of the boot. I've tightened the clamp to the reasonable limit. Must be the mythical Swepco creep.

Some have said, proudly, that they never use a sealant, and I never have before. But if I wanted to try sealant at the boot end, what would folks recommend? (I seem to recall a Wurth product being used for this.)

Brian

[Mitch Covington]

Well it was 6 years ago when this thread started, and 5 years since I used it to change my split boots. Now recently, and for the first time, I had to put my car up on the lift and my boots leaked badly. Very badly.

What's the deal?
1) Did I do a crappy job last time? I did not use any kind of sealer. The boots never leaked until I put the car on the lift and the wheels drooped.
2) Should I expect this to happen after 5 years even with a good job?
3) Anytime that I put her on the lift, should I tie the wheels up so they don't droop... even after new boots?

Jeffrey Leeds in another thread: "And now the dreaded axle boots leaks. Everybody has a favorite sealer, and some have great success with installing the boots dry. But I've found that wiping the (all) contact surfaces with Hylomar Blue sealant has simplified the boot replacement chore. "

I'm hip to try that!

[Jeffrey Leeds]

# 3) + 1 Momentary droops below horizontal should not be a problem, but nothing long term. Gravity works against you, especially when it comes to axle boots.

Jeff



Edited: 1 time to add a descriptor to "gravity"

[brad green]

Gear oil. Has anyone ever figured out how much gear oil is still in the axle tubes when they droop? The fill point is above tubes so it must be a substantial amount.
Brad

[Glen Getchell]

Brad,
You should always fill with the axles level. Not drooping or decambered, but level.

Glen
64Cx2

[Jim Liberty]

If you use a split boot, 10:30 and 1:30 is correct as mentioned above. One to the front one to the rear. It will be obvious when you go to tighten the bolts. .......Jim.

[Ron LaDow]

Brad,
You should always fill with the axles level. Not drooping or decambered, but level.
Glen
64Cx2

If you can do so,this is best practice. But a bit of time with a calculator subtracting the axle volume from the tube volume will tell you it's not likely of concern.