how hard is it to change oil cooler to a aluminum one?

[Lemuel Libunao]

i was thinking of changing my oil cooler to a NLA aluminum one...my heat guage needle climbs up on hard drives.....and i have sync my sender and guage with north hollywood so i will rule that out.... in normal driving its ok..my needle goes about straight up...but when i cruise about 75 -80 about 4000 revs..i see the needle go towards the right side just below the white area before red..

anybody got ideas?

Lemuel Libunao

[Albert Tiedemann]

Check for the presence of the heat shield on the engine. It is missing from about 65% of 356 cars with the US heating system. It fits between the muffler and the oil pump.

Aluminum cooler is a bolt on.

I have one on my 56 Speedster 82984 and a heat shield that I have offered since 1992.

I have BBAA gearing and I have cruised to various ECH events for more than 8 hours duration at engine speeds 4000-4300 rpm. The oil temperature needle never goes past the L in the gauge.

If you have email listed, I will sent you a picture of the part and the installation.

[Lemuel Libunao]

what heat shield...really there suppose to be one..then i think mine is missing..cuase there was nothing between the oil pump and the muffler...

wow!!!(&(^**^&*&... talk about missing stuff..suprise suprise..

you got a picture?


Lemon

[Lemuel Libunao]

do you have to take the motor down to be able to bolt it on?

thanks
Lemon

[Bill Sargent]

The originals did not even bolt on, they were held on by metal tabs folded over the edges of the heater boxes. Which is the main reason that most are missing - the tabs rust, they fall off (and take out the pickup following you).

[Thomas Sottile]

I have my heat-shield in Stainless and small holes to allow you to attach it with screws plus the tabs. Tom

[Barry Brisco]

when i cruise about 75 -80 about 4000 revs..i see the needle go towards the right side just below the white area before red.

Lemuel, that doesn't sound normal to me unless the ambient air temperature is well over 90F.

Are your valves adjusted correctly? Fuel/air mixture not too lean?

Is your stock oil cooler clean and not clogged with dirt and debris?

Do you have a dipstick thermometer that you could use to check the sump oil temp to verify the reading on your dash gauge? (keeping in mind that sump oil temp will be 15 - 20 degrees higher than the indicated temp on the gauge)

Please describe any non-stock engine modifications you have.

My admittedly limited experience is that a stock late 50's 356 engine in good operating condition can be driven at 80mph all day on level roads without the oil temp exceeding two-thirds scale on the gauge as long as the air temp is not over about 90F.

Please tell us the air temp you were driving in when you see your gauge temp get up to just below the red area. Ambient air temp obviously has a significant influence on oil temp.

NOTE: It is not difficult to change to a new aluminum oil cooler such as is sold by NLA, but most people drop the engine to do it. I have heard from people who did not drop the engine to replace the cooler, and they told me it was so much work that they will never do it that way again.

Best regards,

[Lemuel Libunao]

Barry,

I noticed it on the way to Dana Point Concourse.. the needle started to creep in dangerous levels...i thought it was the gauge so i took it to North Hollywood ..Kevin told me that the gauge was a bit off and gave me a new sender unit...so i install the redone gauge and took it out for a hard ride to check ...it is still doing it...so the next step is the oil cooler..

funny thing if i exit and drive slow the engine cools down significantly to 3/4 levels again..


although i started to clean the under carriage this weekend and found a few things wrong..hahahah

1) passenger heater cable broke...
2) drivers boot intact but leaking tranny oil..
3) i guess no heat guage..

thanks
Lemuel Libunao

[Lemuel Libunao]

Barry,,

if i am going to pay the mechanice to bring down the motor..might as well get the flywheel resurfaced and redoo the clutch..and also inspect the fan....

this is costing more and more..hahaha...

Lemuel Libunao

[Barry Brisco]

...so i install the redone gauge and took it out for a hard ride to check ...it is still doing it...so the next step is the oil cooler..[/quote]
And the air temp when you took that "hard ride" was..."?

I recall a post you made recently where you or someone else posted that the temp was about 95 when they were driving to the Dana Point show. At that temp it is not too surprising to see high oil temps on long drives at speed, especially if hills are involved.

To repeat from my previous post in this topic:

Are your valves adjusted correctly? Fuel/air mixture not too lean?

Is your stock oil cooler clean and not clogged with dirt and debris?

Do you have a dipstick thermometer that you could use to check the sump oil temp to verify the reading on your dash gauge? (keeping in mind that sump oil temp will be 15 - 20 degrees higher than the indicated temp on the gauge)

Please describe any non-stock engine modifications you have.

[Thomas Sottile]

If you pull the generator and blower you can check if the coil on the cooler is cloging the air flow, you can buy a coil cleaner which is sprayed on the coil and flushed with water, very easy. you can find the coil cleaner at any Air cond. supply house buy the foam type, read the instructions good luck Tom

[Lemuel Libunao]

I have no idea the condition of the oil cooler...but this am I have tried to mess the air mixture turned it 1/2 turn to rich...taking an40 mile drive this pm...no modes on the normal motor, Barry , it's plain old stock normal motor....I have not done the valve clearance but I hear no tapping so far..those ate the next stepping for me..


Lemuel

[Lemuel Libunao]

It's still doing it....now it not shift into 4th...with all the rotten luck this week..

Lemuel

[Lemuel Libunao]

shoved it on 4th going down hill and it freed it...gees what a nightmare drive today..


that ruled out the lean carbs...and the guage and sender unit..


Lemon

[David Baugh]

I've done it with the engine in place, but wouldn't recommend it. It's a tight fit, even with the rear lid and hinges removed, and you can disturb the cooler mounting when you put it back together. You'll need a sound-proof chamber when you try to replace the shroud screws. Much better to remove the engine.

I'd like to see one of those heat shields.

Dave