Valve adjustment
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Pat Wick
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Sat Apr 05, 2008 11:30 am
- Location: spokane
Valve adjustment
I'm having difficulty adjusting my valves, I stated with #4 got the exhaust fine @.006, but on the intake @.004 I can't seem to get the adjustment set. I've tryed several times but when I screw counter clockwise the lifter does not open or visa sersa for an adjustment. I'm set at TDC with the rotor at 5 oclock. Any suggestions would be appreciated
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Eric Wahlberg
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 283
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:13 pm
- Location: South Central Pennsylvania
Valve adjustment
TDC with the rotor at 5 o'clock should be for the #1 cylinder. Check to see
which cylinder the plug wire from the distributor cap goes to at this
position. Adjust #1, then rotate counterclockwise 180 degrees and do #4.
BTW, you can also set the intakes at .006. Better too loose than too tight.
Plus, you are not constantly switching feeler gauges.
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Wick" <rhondo1@live.com>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:16 AM
Subject: [356Talk] Valve adjustment
which cylinder the plug wire from the distributor cap goes to at this
position. Adjust #1, then rotate counterclockwise 180 degrees and do #4.
BTW, you can also set the intakes at .006. Better too loose than too tight.
Plus, you are not constantly switching feeler gauges.
Eric
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Wick" <rhondo1@live.com>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:16 AM
Subject: [356Talk] Valve adjustment
Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.I'm having difficulty adjusting my valves, I stated with #4 got the
exhaust fine @.006, but on the intake @.004 I can't seem to get the
adjustment set. I've tryed several times but when I screw counter
clockwise the lifter does not open or visa sersa for an adjustment. I'm
set at TDC with the rotor at 5 oclock. Any suggestions would be
appreciated
Eric Wahlberg
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Bob Paxton
- 356 Fan
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2008 12:31 pm
Valve adjustment
Hello Pat
Your pulley marks are at 12 o'clock, rotor is pointing at 5 o'clock (facing
the engine from back of car) valve covers are off, wrench motor back and
forth to make sure both valves are closed (not moving) The valves have been
closed for the entire compression and power stroke so there is a long spell
where the valves have not been moving by any lobe action from the cam.
Adjust as per spec. book recommend (usually .004 on intake and .006 on
exhaust) A couple of engines are reversed...check your specifics. A .006
across the board is good for VW which this car is not. The fire order is
1-4-3-2 but if you turn the engine counter- clockwise you will be adjusting
the valves in the 1-2-3-4 order. This way if adjusting by lifting one side
of the car at a time (forces the oil to flow out of the appropriate cover)
you can do both valves in the same head and then wrap it up and replace the
cover before you do the other side. Rotate the pulley counter-clockwise 180
degress (1/2 turn) or watch the rotor and turn it 90 degrees couterclockwise
from the #1 position (1/4 turn) (which ever is easier for you). Remember
that each time you arrive at a postition to adjust, that the valves have
been stationary for the majority of the compression and power strokes so you
don't have to be dead-nuts on to be close enough for the valve adjustment.
Just be close enough so that you feel good about what you are doing and that
there will be no questions later on the accuracy issue! Valve cover gaskets
should be replaced as needed and top off the oil if needed and you should be
good to go! Oh, don't forget to replace the distributor cap on dizzy before
starting engine
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Wick" <rhondo1@live.com>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:16 AM
Subject: [356Talk] Valve adjustment
Your pulley marks are at 12 o'clock, rotor is pointing at 5 o'clock (facing
the engine from back of car) valve covers are off, wrench motor back and
forth to make sure both valves are closed (not moving) The valves have been
closed for the entire compression and power stroke so there is a long spell
where the valves have not been moving by any lobe action from the cam.
Adjust as per spec. book recommend (usually .004 on intake and .006 on
exhaust) A couple of engines are reversed...check your specifics. A .006
across the board is good for VW which this car is not. The fire order is
1-4-3-2 but if you turn the engine counter- clockwise you will be adjusting
the valves in the 1-2-3-4 order. This way if adjusting by lifting one side
of the car at a time (forces the oil to flow out of the appropriate cover)
you can do both valves in the same head and then wrap it up and replace the
cover before you do the other side. Rotate the pulley counter-clockwise 180
degress (1/2 turn) or watch the rotor and turn it 90 degrees couterclockwise
from the #1 position (1/4 turn) (which ever is easier for you). Remember
that each time you arrive at a postition to adjust, that the valves have
been stationary for the majority of the compression and power strokes so you
don't have to be dead-nuts on to be close enough for the valve adjustment.
Just be close enough so that you feel good about what you are doing and that
there will be no questions later on the accuracy issue! Valve cover gaskets
should be replaced as needed and top off the oil if needed and you should be
good to go! Oh, don't forget to replace the distributor cap on dizzy before
starting engine
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Wick" <rhondo1@live.com>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 12:16 AM
Subject: [356Talk] Valve adjustment
Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.I'm having difficulty adjusting my valves, I stated with #4 got the
exhaust fine @.006, but on the intake @.004 I can't seem to get the
adjustment set. I've tryed several times but when I screw counter
clockwise the lifter does not open or visa sersa for an adjustment. I'm
set at TDC with the rotor at 5 oclock. Any suggestions would be
appreciated
-
Guest
Valve adjustment
Pat,
If you are at TDC you should be adjusting cyl. #1 or #3.
Look at where the dist. is pointing to to see which one the
motor is at. You can also look at the rockers, if you are on
#1 the opposite rockers,#3, will be both rocking.
Alan
Pat Wick wrote:
If you are at TDC you should be adjusting cyl. #1 or #3.
Look at where the dist. is pointing to to see which one the
motor is at. You can also look at the rockers, if you are on
#1 the opposite rockers,#3, will be both rocking.
Alan
Pat Wick wrote:
Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.I'm having difficulty adjusting my valves, I stated with #4 got the
exhaust fine @.006, but on the intake @.004 I can't seem to get the
adjustment set. I've tryed several times but when I screw counter
clockwise the lifter does not open or visa sersa for an adjustment. I'm
set at TDC with the rotor at 5 oclock. Any suggestions would be appreciated
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Guest
Valve adjustment
Greg,
You can place the dist. almost anywhere in the 360 degree
circle circle as long as it is pointing to cyl. firing. for
example if the crank is on TDC #1 the distributor
traditionally will have #1 plug wire at about 4-5 o'clock
and the rotor there and the points just opening. The reason
it is at 4-5 o'clock is to lay out the ignition wires
efficiently and to clear the outside parts of the dist. so
timing can be achieved.
Alan
Greg Spreeman wrote:
You can place the dist. almost anywhere in the 360 degree
circle circle as long as it is pointing to cyl. firing. for
example if the crank is on TDC #1 the distributor
traditionally will have #1 plug wire at about 4-5 o'clock
and the rotor there and the points just opening. The reason
it is at 4-5 o'clock is to lay out the ignition wires
efficiently and to clear the outside parts of the dist. so
timing can be achieved.
Alan
Greg Spreeman wrote:
Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.Strange, I hit TDC with the rotor pointing to #1 but, on my dizzy #1 is
at 7:00. I would think if my dizzy were that screwed up the car wouldn't
even fire. What gives?
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greg Spreeman
1965 356SC Coupe
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S.J. Szabo
Gentlemen:
Here's another $.02 worth:
1. Adjustment should always be done with the rear of the car jacked and level (side to side) and both valve covers removed.
2. Engines should only be turned in their normal direction of crank rotation for accurate results (and to not annoy the motor which does not like anti-rotation).
3. One should check/adjust the valves at least twice each cyl. for accuracy. The compulsive will rotate the engine 720deg. before checking/adjusting a cyl.
The fast way to work one side at a time is to start with #4 (after rotating the crank several times to get the any 'slack' out). Then rotate 180 (clockwise) crank deg. for #3. Move to other side, rotate 180deg. (CW) for #2, 180deg (CW) more for no. 1. Another 180deg (CW) takes you back to #4 for the second round. You will need to mark your pulley 180deg. from TDC for accuracy. Be aware that with some cams the lifters may not be entirely off their lobe ramp at exactly TDC.
PS Mr. Wick: I'm sure you meant to say that turning the adjustment screw CW opens the valve. You didn't say whether the intake was tight when trying to adjust, but its possible that you are not off the lobe ramp, not at TDC, etc.; more info would be reqd. to diagnose your issue. Also, are your adj. screws properly located to the rocker? Screws must show approx. equal thread above and below the rocker end (for oil flow).
When first you don't succeed......
Here's another $.02 worth:
1. Adjustment should always be done with the rear of the car jacked and level (side to side) and both valve covers removed.
2. Engines should only be turned in their normal direction of crank rotation for accurate results (and to not annoy the motor which does not like anti-rotation).
3. One should check/adjust the valves at least twice each cyl. for accuracy. The compulsive will rotate the engine 720deg. before checking/adjusting a cyl.
The fast way to work one side at a time is to start with #4 (after rotating the crank several times to get the any 'slack' out). Then rotate 180 (clockwise) crank deg. for #3. Move to other side, rotate 180deg. (CW) for #2, 180deg (CW) more for no. 1. Another 180deg (CW) takes you back to #4 for the second round. You will need to mark your pulley 180deg. from TDC for accuracy. Be aware that with some cams the lifters may not be entirely off their lobe ramp at exactly TDC.
PS Mr. Wick: I'm sure you meant to say that turning the adjustment screw CW opens the valve. You didn't say whether the intake was tight when trying to adjust, but its possible that you are not off the lobe ramp, not at TDC, etc.; more info would be reqd. to diagnose your issue. Also, are your adj. screws properly located to the rocker? Screws must show approx. equal thread above and below the rocker end (for oil flow).
When first you don't succeed......