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 Post subject: In a pickle - end float on a 64 SC engine - 3 shims!
PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 4:01 pm 
356 Fan

Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 2:03 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Falmouth, Cornwall
First of all, a hello and an introduction as this is my first post... =)

I loved the 356 from the moment I first saw one. I was mesmerized by the shape and promised to have one one day (this was back in 1993). Fast forward to 2009, and I made some big progress on that dream, by buying a basket case 1964 356 SC. It had at least two previous owners making good progress on it (i.e taking it apart, welding), but its up to me to finish it and get it on the road again.

Ive got a big problem with the crankshaft end float (flywheel end). I pulled the engine as it was leaking oil from almost everywhere. I found the bypass, and pressure relief valves to be stuck (both), and the flywheel gland nut was loose...

Now here is the problem. Its a 3 piece SC engine (616/16), which has been rebuilt, but It has 3 shims (thin - about 1mm in total) for behind the flywheel seal, and not the one thick thrust washer as the books say. What should I do? I read in the books that the SC engine had split bearing on number 1 and so should have a 1 thick thrust washer...not not the three like i've seen on VW beetle engines.

I can post a picture of the bearing if it helps? But it is just a picture of the bearing/dowels - I haven't split the case, and a little nervous too (although i'm a fairly good mechanic)

I unfortunately dont know the history of the engine. I was told it was rebuilt by a Volkswagen specialist (great for them - but maybe not for me!). Its very clean, meaning that it probally has less than 5000 miles on it. It may even not be run in yet!

So the ultimate question, is just go with the 3 shims, being sure the endfloat is 0.005-0.007 (ive got some more in a box somewhere), or throw them away and get the proper thrust washer....Should I be worried, should I stop and split the case now? I'd rather not, but if that is what I have to do, then so be it.

Thanks in advance

Luke


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 4:53 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 27, 2009 5:02 pm
Posts: 4188
Location: SE Michigan
The SC had a solid #1 bearing; the S-90 had a split bearing. With a total of 1mm in thin shims, the total thickness sounds correct; it's just that the VW mechanic used the thin 36 HP shims, instead of one correct 356 shim. And tighten the gland nut way beyond what some VW guy thinks is OK!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 3:37 am 
356 Fan

Joined: Mon Sep 20, 2010 2:03 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Falmouth, Cornwall
Ok, so in a nutshell, just go with the set up as it is (just being sure the end float is correct), as its not as big a drama has I thought it was!

I'm a good mechanic, but I panicked on this one! I guess I needed reassurance that I could do that, and not have to take the whole engine apart to check the right bearings are installed.

Im full steam ahead with getting the 356 on the road - but taking the engine apart would take the wind out of my sails!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 21, 2010 10:45 pm 
The original set up was to use one thick shim, about 1mm, so it sounds like you had a VW guy that use 3 thin shims like a VW. This an ok situation, the only thing to make sure is that if you go with the thin shim route you use 3 or more shims and it sounds like that is where you are. Hopefully the ones you have will get the right end play otherwise you need to find some other shims or one thick one.

Alan


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