Roadster Windshield Removal

[Kent Brewer]

I have a 60 Roadster and I am trying to remove the windshield. I have removed the 2 frame main bolts on either side , but it will not budge.

What am I missing here?

Thanks for the help

[John Heah]

Have you tried the nut of the mirror rod underneath the dash in the middle?

[Chuck House]

I have a 60 Roadster and I am trying to remove the windshield. I have removed the 2 frame main bolts on either side , but it will not budge.

What am I missing here?

Thanks for the help

If you are unlucky, the posts can be quite rusted in the body. Try penetrant like Kroil and have patience. Obviously you have to also remove the center tension rod. I assume there is a good reason you are removing it because the roadster/D windshield can be one of the toughest things to reinstall on any 356 (especially without breaking). Good luck.

[Norm Miller]

Kent,

It took me a week of Thursdays to remove a D w/s.

This was a car in Colorado with no rust.

First of all the clearance for the studs on the post's is real tight and it doesn't
take much rust to stick them.

So to find a method; I tried a brass drift from the underside & did jar them loose after a lot of penetrant had been applied. Dig out the gasket between the post and body to inject the penetrant.

That in itself didn't do the job, nor did putty knives or flat blades. Though there was movement they wouldn't extract.

Being desperate but not wanting to break the glass I searched my shop for a "tool" that might work.
The unlikely find was a tie rod "pickle fork" whose tangs would clear the post stud, so knowing that there was some body work to do I tried it.

The left side came loose quickly and the right finally gave up and released with a bit more persuasion..

The glass survived, no damage to the posts. Re-installation woes would require another volume.

Norm

[Bill Oldham]

I went through this a year ago, after reading everything I could find. Mine were seriously rusted in place. I made a post extension from brass as follows: diameter of just less than the post, and length a few inches (about 3 as I remember). drill and tap for a stud that can thread in where the screws came out on the bottom of the posts. Now insert a stud (cut off screw)
thread the post extension into place. Use a knife to attack and remove the rubber gasket so one can flood with penetrant. I then used a small sledge to pound upward on the screw-in brass post extension. It did not seem like much was moving, so I used a feeler gauge to measure the gap where the gasket was removed. I would take 20 hits and remeasure. In the beginning it would move only a few mils for 20 or more hits, but it did move, so I kept it up. Hours later, with tired muscles, it was clearly up a noticeable amount and finally it got to the point where a few taps pushed it right out (alternating sides of course).
No damage to posts or car body, but the end of the brass rod where I was whacking it was nicely peened.I am not at home else I would take a photo of the beat-up brass rod; I can do that this weekend if someone wants.
bill oldham

[Jeffrey Fellman]

I have very mixed feelings about the list these days but why punish the many
for the sins of a few. I am gueassing that the number of people who have
R&R'd a convertible D/Roadster windshield more often than myself can be
counted using your fingers. When I posted the steps to install an
aftermarket windshield some believed I was being facetious. I could not have
been more serious. Removal is a little easier and the average guy CAN do
this. Most of the times the steel part of the posts are stuck in the tubes
like one solid piece of adamantine. Here is what worked for me, buy one of
the cheap import , useless, air chisels [this task is the only reason I have
one in the shop]. Do NOT use a high quality air chisel or you will do a
great deal of damage to the car. Take the longest bolt that you can
introduce into the post underneath , this varies a good bit car to car and
post to post. Thread in as much as possible but be sure it is not bottomed
to the car body, leave about 5mm space between the head of the bolt and the
body. Take a blunt driving tool, cut the end off of a chisel or grind a
chisel blunt, whatever appeals to you and rap the living hell out of the
head of the bolt. NOTE!!!! you are NOT trying to drive the bolt upward, you
want to apply light pressure and just vibrate the living hell out of the
post stud. Give it hell for a good long time and make that sonofagun BUZZ!.
Try a little sideways action, a little up and down action, just knock the
thing silly but again, not hard to drive it up, just any old way you can to
make it shake. Do this untill your ears and hands can't take it anymore and
chances are that fairly normal efforts will now remove the posts. I will
leave it to the armchair army to explain why.





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