Speedi sleeve question

[Bill Shea]

Hi all,

I just installed a Speedi Sleeve on my crank pulley (no problem) but removing the flange is anything but. The instructions make it look easy but I'm having a lot of difficulty. I finally resorted to using Dremmel with a mini whizzer disc to carefully cut it up to the score mark but it still doesn't want to peel away.

Any tips or suggestions?

...Bill Shea
Frustrated in Eastern PA
'64 SC coupe

[Ken Daugherty]

Bill,
I have installed several. My technique is to put some JB weld on the
flywheel/pulley and then install the Speedy Sleeve.
To remove the drive flange, I use a small metal chisel to further degrade
the cut line and then a pair of side cutters to start the cut and then it
just peels away.
The JB Weld is insurance that oil wont seep between the Speedy Seal
and the flywheel. Instead of JB Weld an alternative would be a wicking
sealer...
The final trim is to use take a small ball peen hammer and tap the
edge and a file to clean up the standing edge...
Ken Daugherty
kend356@insightbb.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shea [mailto:bshea@shealatone.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 5:32 PM
To: 356talk@356registry.com
Subject: [356Talk] Speedi sleeve question


Hi all,

I just installed a Speedi Sleeve on my crank pulley (no problem) but
removing the flange is anything but. The instructions make it look easy but
I'm having a lot of difficulty. I finally resorted to using Dremmel with a
mini whizzer disc to carefully cut it up to the score mark but it still
doesn't want to peel away.

Any tips or suggestions?

...Bill Shea
Frustrated in Eastern PA
'64 SC coupe




-------------------- m2f --------------------

To contact an administrator admin@356registry.com
To unsubscribe go to http://www.356registry.com/forum/m2f_usercp.php
Read this topic online here:
http://356registry.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 4398#74398

-------------------- m2f --------------------

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

[Robert Harrington]

Ken,
Have you tried any of the locktites ( blue,red,green ) for this job?
Just curious...

Robert Harrington



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Daugherty" <kend356@insightbb.com>
To: <356talk@356registry.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 4:57 PM
Subject: [356Talk] Speedi sleeve question

Bill,
I have installed several. My technique is to put some JB weld on the
flywheel/pulley and then install the Speedy Sleeve.
To remove the drive flange, I use a small metal chisel to further degrade
the cut line and then a pair of side cutters to start the cut and then it
just peels away.
The JB Weld is insurance that oil wont seep between the Speedy Seal
and the flywheel. Instead of JB Weld an alternative would be a wicking
sealer...
The final trim is to use take a small ball peen hammer and tap the
edge and a file to clean up the standing edge...
Ken Daugherty
kend356@insightbb.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Shea [mailto:bshea@shealatone.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 5:32 PM
To: 356talk@356registry.com
Subject: [356Talk] Speedi sleeve question


Hi all,

I just installed a Speedi Sleeve on my crank pulley (no problem) but
removing the flange is anything but. The instructions make it look easy
but
I'm having a lot of difficulty. I finally resorted to using Dremmel with
a
mini whizzer disc to carefully cut it up to the score mark but it still
doesn't want to peel away.

Any tips or suggestions?

...Bill Shea
Frustrated in Eastern PA
'64 SC coupe





------------------------
Ken Daugherty

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.

[Bill Shea]

Thanks all for your responses. After chewing up the flange to no avail (grrr!), I decided to take the easy way out. I chucked it in a lathe and cut the damn thing off!

Now all's well in PA!

...Bill

[Albert Tiedemann]

Ah yes--as the Leica* camerman repairman would say..."there is a trick".

I have found that if you use a cut off wheel to make one slit in the flange down to the prescore BEFORE installing, side cutters can then be recruited to remove the flange. I have not found that any anoerobic compound or the like is necessary to effect a seal at the interface of the repaired surface as you only need one continuous, ungrooved surface to seal the interface.

I have sucessfully installed speedie sleeves on flywheels, crankshaft pulleys, transmission mainshafts and front wheel distance pieces/seal surfaces for the stub axle on the 356. Special tooling is needed to install the sleeves on mainshafts and front wheel distance pieces if you do not want to remove the latter to install the sleeve and then reinstall the sleeved unit. Most of the Speedie sleeves cost about $30 each. In the case of the flywheel, reclaiming the unit for the cost of the sleeve and labor is cost efffective as there is a minimum finishing diameter recommended/specified for all lip seals. The mainshaft can be reclaimed as well with cost incentives and considering that the first gear is a matched set--more savings can be realized. The Speedie sleeve that is available for the crankshaft pulley is a bit long--but introduces no problem. In fact, you do not need to remove the flange for this application. I have taken a few engines apart and have noticed that this was the practice. I guess it was hard to remove and there is the flat rate consideration. The front wheel distance piece is a near trade-off between new and reclamation with the Speedie sleeve. However, If you are repairing the very early stub axle assemblies, the distance piece is very inexpensive--much less than the cost of the repair sleeve. I am informed that it is a VW part but if you buy them from Stoddard's, you may find that they have not been made correctly. The ones that I purchased had a few anomolies for the application. The material selected by the producer had an acceptable surface finish, but it was too soft AND the bore was too big. I sent units back with a non conformance note. This condition may have been corrected--but I would verify as Ronnie used to say.

I know that many choose to refinish the surfaces of the crankshaft pulley and the flywheel hub. And, the oil seal distance piece on the rear axle and the mainshaft can be tweeked as well. And if you remove the distance piece/oil seal surface on the stub axle, it can be refinished also. However, the only finishing limit that I have found in manuals is for the flywheel hub and it is specified at 2.35 inches. It is likely that such data for the other interfaces of interest may be available from seal manufactures for the sizes used on the Porsche.

If you decide to use any finishing technique on existing oil seal surfaces, please bear in mind that there is a finishing limit, a recommened surface finish, a [residual] hardness, and a maximum run out of the sealing surface. All are tied to the medium to be sealed, the sealing diameter and the maximum rpm to be experienced.

* a good friend noticed that this originally was mispelled. Thank you John. Also, athough he failed to comment, it is the abreviation for Leitz + Camera.

[Albert Tiedemann]

Bill,

To remove the drive flange, ... and then a pair of side cutters to start the cut and then it
just peels away.

.

That better be a very sharp [read new] pair of side cutters [7 inch size minimum] and/or a powerful grip as well.

[Al Zim]

We have never had any problems leaving the flange on the speedy sleeve. Nothing touches it and no one can see it. As a matter a fact this is the first time I ever heard of anyone removing it. al zim

[Lemuel Libunao]

We have never had any problems leaving the flange on the speedy sleeve. Nothing touches it and no one can see it. As a matter a fact this is the first time I ever heard of anyone removing it. al zim

am about to put one on...for the pulley...i have already put the whole thing together..but it still leaks..so i just ordered the speedi sleeve....i have a 56 case putting it in...so do i remove the five bolts that hold the oil seal housing ..and remove the oil seal housing...the 56 case is different from the newer 57-59 case... then put the sleeve on then put back the oil seal housing...the flange is towards the front of the car? right?

thanks in advance

Lemon

[Albert Tiedemann]

We have never had any problems leaving the flange on the speedy sleeve. Nothing touches it and no one can see it. As a matter a fact this is the first time I ever heard of anyone removing it. al zim

am about to put one on...for the pulley...i have already put the whole thing together..but it still leaks..so i just ordered the speedi sleeve....i have a 56 case putting it in...so do i remove the five bolts that hold the oil seal housing ..and remove the oil seal housing...the 56 case is different from the newer 57-59 case... then put the sleeve on then put back the oil seal housing...the flange is towards the front of the car? right?

thanks in advance

Lemon

1. Remove crankshaft pulley
2. Install sleeve [my recollection is the total seal length to the score line is excessive, so when you install sleeve, just be sure that the sleeve end opposite the flange is not
proud. When the pulley is reinstalled, the flange end will be towards the back of the car.
3. leave the flange or remove it
4, reinstall the pulley. You will not find a torque spec for the pulley fastener but 45 ft lbs is a good value to use and it is plenty.

You do not need to remove the oil seal housing unless you are changing the seal. There is a special press tool [or maybe I made one] for installing the seal to make sure that it is not installed askew], but many will say that you can beat in --nay make that gently tap it in-- with a hammer and piece of wood [the reverse of "tapping" the front wheel outer race of the inner bearing from the drum or hub with a hammer and drift as has been reported successfully by many.

[Phil Planck]

Ab gives some great advice in his posts above. Removing the flange can distort the sleeve surface if you are not very careful and maybe, experienced. I would leave it on unless it is interfering with something.

[Al Zim]

The flange for the speedy sleeve should be towards the rear of the car and against the side of the pulley. Before you put it on carefully clean the pulley use carburetor cleaner around the key way. With a flashlight look for cracks. This is usually the cause of you leak. There is no way to repair this! Purchase a new pulley.
If you have removed you old seal, you can install a new one by laying the seal holder on a flat and tapping the new seal in by putting a small board across it. The 6MM bolt should be torqued 8 to 10 Ft. Lbs. I am guessing that it would be possible to distort the seal holder, but you would really have to go out of you way to do it.
To torque the nut, put the car in first gear and pull the parking brake on. Put a chock front and rear on one rear wheel. This should lock everything up so the torque wrench will work properly. al zim

[Vic Skirmants]

And for God's sake don't put anything through one of the holes and try to hold the pulley against one of the ledges on the timing cover. You WILL break it off!

[Albert Tiedemann]

And for God's sake don't put anything through one of the holes and try to hold the pulley against one of the ledges on the timing cover. You WILL break it off!

Another procedure to be avoided after loosening the crankshaft pulley fastener is the recruitment of handy prying appliances[fingers and thumbs excepted] to effect an axial extraction force sufficient to remove the pulley from its seat on the crankshaft. These devices have a way of breaking out a section of the pulley "v" for the fan belt. Porsche made a special tool, P43, for this proceedure. The original issue of this tool worked well on four hole pulleys, and not so well on the very first aftermarket 4 hole pulleys due to dimension inconsistencies in the hole size/location. On two hole pulleys, the thickness of the web was increased and made use of the original tool difficult without some judicious grinding of the extraction lugs on the tool. Often Porsche makes changes in the tool design/proportions without changing the tool number. If you ask why, they say--because they are Germans--vee can. I made clones of the tool that would work with either pulley with improvement in the resisting section for extraction and metallurgy. If there were sufficient demand, I would make another run.

[Albert Tiedemann]

With a flashlight look for cracks. This is usually the cause of you leak. There is no way to repair this! Purchase a new pulley.

To torque the nut, put the car in first gear and pull the parking brake on. Put a chock front and rear on one rear wheel. This should lock everything up so the torque wrench will work properly. al zim

I seem to recall a post wherein Dick Weiss said that he had fit a shrink ring on the pully hub to effect a repair of the sealing surface. It seems plausible that this fitted ring might terminate the propogation of the gap/crack while simutaneously closing same to interupt a channel of seeping oil. At more than $200 for a new pulley, it may merit more investigation.


Putting the transmission in 4th gear will reduce the static loading on the gear teeth.

[Leo Hudson]

Never had to remove the flange when using speedi sleeve on pulley. However when using speedi sleeve on the flywheel I found it is necessary to remove the flange.
Leo