Crimped hood frame
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- 356 Fan
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Crimped hood frame
I have a crimped hood frame at the hinges of my 64 C Coupe. I was told to remove the frame from the skin, hammer it all out and replace. Has anyone ever done that, or perhaps have a simpler solution? Thanks, Mark.
- Martin Minnich
- 356 Fan
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- Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:48 am
I dealt with that misfortune by applying some judicious force on the top of the hood above the kink while working the metal channel with a hammer and dolly. The tough part isn't the kinked frame, its shrinking the hood above where the kink formed. Word of advice from someone who could have used some, don't use a torch to shrink the hood unless you have an itty-bitty pinpoint flame. If I had it to do again, which I hope I never do, I'd use a shrinking disc.
Best of luck. Marty
Best of luck. Marty
Marty Minnich
356C
E-Type Jag (for those who care!)
Arlington, Texas
356C
E-Type Jag (for those who care!)
Arlington, Texas
- Martin Hirst
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- Diana Bergen
- 356 Fan
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T6 Hood repair
I highly recommend separating the hood skin from the frame so that you can both fix the dents/stretch creases as well as remove all the rust inside the hidden area . There is a lot of untreated metal in there and when the seals between the hood handle and hood go dry or missing , water gets in and accelerates the corrosion already present there , so to fix the dents and put into service only to have blisters appear later wont satisfy . Complete disassembly allows for complete restoration and protection . Once apart , you can make the frame fit the body, then the skin , then the crimped assemblage , as well as preserve the metal inside w the primer of your choice . Once reassembled , pour extra paint into the void and slosh around for good measure. I've done this to four or more hoods and it takes about a week of time to complete , but a perfect hood costs as much and is still raw inside ...Good luck
Uwe & Diana
- Jim Fleming
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Mark,
Being the shade tree type of guy that I am, I always look for the quickest, practical fix. Re-skinning a hood or any body panel requires a whole bunch of time and skill which I don't have.
On my T-5 I removed the hood and worked a side at a time inverted on a flat work surface. The most important dimension that you want to achieve is the curvature of the outside sheet metal so it matches the front body work.
I used c-clamps and pieces of 1/2" plywood 6" wide by 24" long. The plywood flexes and the hood flexes resulting in a pretty even curve. One side took one layer of plywood and the other side took two layers. Once I got the hood flexed to a fairly normal curvature I used a pulling hammer, heat and normal body work tools to get the inner structure as straight as possible. On my hood there were several splits/ breaks in the inner structure at each side which I brazed closed once the proper shape was achieved. One side got a little hot and started burning the plywood so I unclamped and added a layer of sheet steel between the hood and plywood.
I also cut a wooden template out of 1/4" plywood to keep checking the hood curvature for its conformance with the body. Needless to say you have to keep adjusting the clamps and your impromptu plywood buck as you work the structure.
The amount of stretching, shrinking, metalworking and filling in preparation for paint is a personal decision. Is the car a driver or show piece? I have no qualms about using a little polyester body filler just so it is not to thick.
Have fun, Jim
Being the shade tree type of guy that I am, I always look for the quickest, practical fix. Re-skinning a hood or any body panel requires a whole bunch of time and skill which I don't have.
On my T-5 I removed the hood and worked a side at a time inverted on a flat work surface. The most important dimension that you want to achieve is the curvature of the outside sheet metal so it matches the front body work.
I used c-clamps and pieces of 1/2" plywood 6" wide by 24" long. The plywood flexes and the hood flexes resulting in a pretty even curve. One side took one layer of plywood and the other side took two layers. Once I got the hood flexed to a fairly normal curvature I used a pulling hammer, heat and normal body work tools to get the inner structure as straight as possible. On my hood there were several splits/ breaks in the inner structure at each side which I brazed closed once the proper shape was achieved. One side got a little hot and started burning the plywood so I unclamped and added a layer of sheet steel between the hood and plywood.
I also cut a wooden template out of 1/4" plywood to keep checking the hood curvature for its conformance with the body. Needless to say you have to keep adjusting the clamps and your impromptu plywood buck as you work the structure.
The amount of stretching, shrinking, metalworking and filling in preparation for paint is a personal decision. Is the car a driver or show piece? I have no qualms about using a little polyester body filler just so it is not to thick.
Have fun, Jim
James H. Fleming
- Diana Bergen
- 356 Fan
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Hood repair
[
de skinning a late hood is not too hard and the early five L
piece hoods are even easier , as the individual frame sections Re easily reformed and returned to original place. Seperating the frame from the skin allows the repair of skin to be much easier as well. [/quote]
de skinning a late hood is not too hard and the early five L
piece hoods are even easier , as the individual frame sections Re easily reformed and returned to original place. Seperating the frame from the skin allows the repair of skin to be much easier as well. [/quote]
Uwe & Diana
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- 356 Fan
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Delamination is both the best and yet the toughest way to fix the typical kinks and other front lid maladies.
Two good things about it. You can address the inevitable rust in the frame/outer skin hollow and also reinforce the weak area invisibly.
The metal stretches when it bends, so the shrinking may be done in the outer 'skin' without filler if you know what you are doing (and only a small amount if you are a novice) if it is apart.
The most important thing to be aware of is that when unfolding the edge, do NOT roll it back, bend the flange up gradually to a straight 90 degrees and avoid a bending back that makes a ridge on the outer side of the 'skin.'
The spot weld drilling (4 to 8, average of 6 on each lid's inner perimeter) should go through the inner fold and the inner frame edge, NOT the outer metal. Broken loose with a thin putty knife, those still allow good realignment when reattaching the two pieces that comprise the lid, but after carefully rebending the edge to not generate (new) cracks, trial fit the lid on the car before MIG welding the shot areas should new contours be required.
It's not rocket science, but it's a days' work to uncrimp, do the average remediation and reattach. A special uncrimping tool is required, Eastwood or others (or a homemade modified slip-joint pliers) and typical patience. Special spot weld drill bits are a help, as well.
Funny, all the latest arrivals at my shop have that "not fixed right sneer" along the lid edges, mid-fender, just in front of the hinge areas and the lids feel really heavy.
Guess I should get (and read?) the latest DIY resto book to know if I'm wasting my time with these postings if the info is already available ...... (but at least these tidbits are free, huh...... )
Two good things about it. You can address the inevitable rust in the frame/outer skin hollow and also reinforce the weak area invisibly.
The metal stretches when it bends, so the shrinking may be done in the outer 'skin' without filler if you know what you are doing (and only a small amount if you are a novice) if it is apart.
The most important thing to be aware of is that when unfolding the edge, do NOT roll it back, bend the flange up gradually to a straight 90 degrees and avoid a bending back that makes a ridge on the outer side of the 'skin.'
The spot weld drilling (4 to 8, average of 6 on each lid's inner perimeter) should go through the inner fold and the inner frame edge, NOT the outer metal. Broken loose with a thin putty knife, those still allow good realignment when reattaching the two pieces that comprise the lid, but after carefully rebending the edge to not generate (new) cracks, trial fit the lid on the car before MIG welding the shot areas should new contours be required.
It's not rocket science, but it's a days' work to uncrimp, do the average remediation and reattach. A special uncrimping tool is required, Eastwood or others (or a homemade modified slip-joint pliers) and typical patience. Special spot weld drill bits are a help, as well.
Funny, all the latest arrivals at my shop have that "not fixed right sneer" along the lid edges, mid-fender, just in front of the hinge areas and the lids feel really heavy.
Guess I should get (and read?) the latest DIY resto book to know if I'm wasting my time with these postings if the info is already available ...... (but at least these tidbits are free, huh...... )
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Crimped hood frame
All;
The Hood lip uncrimping tools that Eastwood used to sell are no longer available. Does anyone have them for sale? If so, would be interested in buying them from your..
Gary Thies
56' coupe
65' coupe
The Hood lip uncrimping tools that Eastwood used to sell are no longer available. Does anyone have them for sale? If so, would be interested in buying them from your..
Gary Thies
56' coupe
65' coupe
- Trevor Gates
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Re: Crimped hood frame
I made some out of tile cutters.
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- Don Gale
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Re: Crimped hood frame
1958 356A 1600 Super Sunroof Coupe
former 1966 Euro 912 Sunroof
former 1978 Intermeccanica Speedster w/'68 912
Member Since 1983, #4039
"Nostalgia isn't what it used to be"
former 1966 Euro 912 Sunroof
former 1978 Intermeccanica Speedster w/'68 912
Member Since 1983, #4039
"Nostalgia isn't what it used to be"
- Martin Benade
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Re: Crimped hood frame
I made a special dolly that hooks inside the channel. It allowsy you to essentially hammer the dent out from the inside. I am trapped in the hospital after major surgery but could post pics in about a week or lend you the tool. It worked well
Cleveland Ohio
62 Cabriolet
56 VW
02 IS 300
04 Sienna
62 Cabriolet
56 VW
02 IS 300
04 Sienna
- Doug McDonnell
- 356 Fan
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Re: Crimped hood frame
Repair pieces for the hood frame are available from Restoration Design. My bodyshop custom-made repair pieces. If the bent hood frame isn't repaired so it has strength then your repaired hood could bend again more easily. See page 5 of this link: viewtopic.php?f=4&t=42619&start=60
1965 356C 2000 BMW 740i Sport 1967 Honda CL77 There is never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to do it over.
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- 356 Fan
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Re: Crimped hood frame
My project is an A hood, badly repaired hood frame. I will attempt to replace it using the suggestions from this thread and help from others in the know. The main issue is the uncrimping tool that Eastwood used to sell, not available. Now, there is one from a Swiss company, Evote-Swiss for $150, plus shipping, or the one suggested from John Stortz & Sons, $60, which Bob Cannon indicates may need to be modified slightly..
- Mike Wilson
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Re: Crimped hood frame
All the best for a speedy recovery, Martin.
Mike
Mike
Mike Wilson
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe
Lomita, CA
'63 B coupe
- John Brooks
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Re: Crimped hood frame
We have had good success using welded studs and a slide hammer. Locating the pull points are a little tricky. "Last in first out". This hood was kinked you could get a finger under the bend at the fender on both sides. We did not loosen or peel the skin, just put in tension and pulled our the dent in the frame. Bob Brooks took out the kinks put it back to factory arc in about 2 hours, perfect gap and no bondo
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John Brooks
62 Roadster
66 912
84 Cab
getting pushed around in porsches since 1965
62 Roadster
66 912
84 Cab
getting pushed around in porsches since 1965