3rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

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JERRY LANDES
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3rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#1 Post by JERRY LANDES »

Does anyone have an early 57 T2 with the original motor. If so I need to know if the 3rd piece was still like the earlier T1 cars or like the 58 with the oil pressure valve on the side. This was known for 58 but I suspect might have started with the T2 in Sept. If anyone knows the exact motor # that would be perfect.

Thanks Jerry Landes

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john fletcher
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58 third piece

#2 Post by john fletcher »

Jerry,
The parts book shows the third piece with the thermostat being fitted to N engines from 67001 to 68216 and for the S engine from 81201 to 81521.
John

Lance SEYMOUR
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#3 Post by Lance SEYMOUR »

Aaaand... some conflicting information.

The 'August 1958 Edition - 356A SUPPLEMENTS Workshop Manual (page SE5) states:

"Attention: Type 1600 Type: 160S
. up to engine number P-68897 P-81707

the counterpressure line described under 'Oil Circulation System' was installed as an external line from the connection fitting for the bypass oil filter to the bypass valve. The lines of the following engines from one cast integral unit with the timing unit case cover."

While this 'English' is a little convoluted, it seems to be saying that the x2 numbers noted are the change over between EXTERNAL line and INTERNAL line of the Case Third Piece.

If this is so, it would be expected that the Change over numbers would be somewhere between the those quoted above by John. Very difficult.

Harry continually warned us to question the factory manuals - especially the 'little factory Spec Book' which offer other information which confuses further. His research indicated a change from external to internal around 1958.5 timeframe.

I think that all of this suggests that 'your guess is a good as mine'!

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Peter M. Zimmermann
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#4 Post by Peter M. Zimmermann »

I have engine number P 69901 (in a 1958 coupe) that I'm pretty sure is the original engine for the car. It is fitted with the external line, which has been giving me fits!

First I had a seam leak along the middle part of the line, so I had a local hydraulic technician cut the line in two places and add a length of Aeroquip hose to the end fittings.

Now I have a bit of seepage at the upper connection point where the bottom of the inlet oil line to the oil filter cannister attaches. It's interesting that the leak stops as the oil gets warmer and the oil pressure drops. It just stayed dry through a heat cycle but I know it's been leaking (cold) because of oil contamination on the left side cylinder head and cylinders.

Tomorrow I will disconnect the line and see if I can file the seal surface and make sure that it's flat. If it is, I'm at a loss as to what to do next.

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Vic Skirmants
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#5 Post by Vic Skirmants »

My original 69666 had the internal line. The timing cover is still in my loft, so I can verify if needed. Chassis was 103614; my first 356.

Mike Horton
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#6 Post by Mike Horton »

Be sure to replace the copper, or aluminum annular gaskets, as they are one time use dead soft crush gaskets, to accommodate slight anomalies in surface irregulatrities. These gaskets usually come in new gasket sets, or order from our vendors. After torque, these become hardened.

We used these in aviation, and especially in high pressure pneumatics, we learned to replace them at each reassembly,
Mike

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Peter M. Zimmermann
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#7 Post by Peter M. Zimmermann »

Mike Horton wrote:Be sure to replace the copper, or aluminum annular gaskets, as they are one time use dead soft crush gaskets, to accommodate slight anomalies in surface irregulatrities.
Oh, yeah, while attempting to seal the banjo fitting I tried large OD copper, large OD aluminum, and finally small OD aluminum washers, the latter worked the best. Then I cheated! I took the banjo bolt out, checked it for straight, cleaned the fittings/bolt with lacquer thinner and put a thin smear of red RTV Silicone sealant on each new washer. After a 24-hour set-up period passed, I took a deep breath, let it out slowly, and started the car. The fitting stayed dry!!! :D

Now, if I can find the correct length front brake hoses for the car I'll be able to drive it for the first time in about 14 years! That's for a different thread!
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Last edited by Peter M. Zimmermann on Sat May 19, 2018 10:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Craig Richter
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#8 Post by Craig Richter »

As broke kids, we used to anneal the copper washers (don't remember any alu washers back then) with a fat torch and touch 'em up with a file. Got many more uses out of 'em.
Hated that external oil line. They hang down just far enough to catch on big bumps and ruin your evening.
 

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Peter M. Zimmermann
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#9 Post by Peter M. Zimmermann »

Craig Richter wrote: Hated that external oil line. They hang down just far enough to catch on big bumps and ruin your evening.
LOL! This one...?
IMG_1259 (2).JPG

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Craig Richter
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Re: #rd Piece ID for early T2 motor.

#10 Post by Craig Richter »

It's popular on this forum to use the phrase "don't ask me how I know". Well...
 

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