Transmission storage removing axle tubes

[Dan Mazur]

Hi Folks,
I have a couple of spare transmissions I am tripping over in the garage and would like to take the axle tubes and drive shafts off to facilitate storage. However, I have heard repeatedly that pulling the drive shafts outward will cause serious problems (something slips out of place in the Diff?)
Can someone suggest a good way to deal with these issues?
Thanks in advance
Dan

[Norm Miller]

Dan,

As you intend to remove the shafts there is no problem.

When the axle shaft if inadvertanly pulled outward when removing a bearing the fulcrum plates will become displaced and it's a no fun afternoon re-setting them.

Norm

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[Norm Miller]

Dan,

PS: try to keep the axles and fulcrums as they were removed.
If they are original they are matched.

n

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[Guest]

Dan,
To remove the axles you will need to remove the entire axle/diff
assembly from the tranny and then open the diff housing and then remove
the axles. If you do this there are shims that set the backlash of the
diff and the preloads on the bearings. You must be sure they end up in
the correct spot. What can happen to a tranny is the fulcrum plates will
fall out of line and the axles will lock in a straight out position. The
only way to cure this is to pull the diff out and reposition the fulcrum
plates. You must also mark which fulcrum plat goes to which axle since
they come in sizes.

Alan

Dan Mazur wrote:

Hi Folks,
I have a couple of spare transmissions I am tripping over in the
garage and would like to take the axle tubes and drive shafts off to
facilitate storage. However, I have heard repeatedly that pulling the
drive shafts outward will cause serious problems (something slips out
of place in the Diff?)
Can someone suggest a good way to deal with these issues?
Thanks in advance
Dan




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[Albert Tiedemann]

Have you considered "standing on end" [axles vertical]. If you have open studs or can locate the studs easily, simple band steel straps [1/8" x 1 "] 2 places can be fashioned to support the unit to the studs. If "open studding" a portion of the bell housing can be sunk to the depth of the exterior wall--likely 3.5 inches. Let gravity help with a minimum stabilizing member for the upper tube. No disassembly and attendant fulcrum plate fear. Just drain the oil before hanging and put a few thicknesses of paper under the axle until no more drips.

You could also use a shelf [Lowes and the like have very heavy duty brackets that could be attached to the studs]. You can get these that will take a shelf 16 inches wide. 3/4 plywood ripped to width and long enough to support the axle tube assembly would serve the purpose if two brackets were used for each shelf on the 32 inch spacing of the studs Bore a hole in the shelf to pass the input shaft, and stand the unit on the bell housing providing a safety stabilizing member to the nose piece to keep it from falling over. Tubes, axles, backing plates, hubs, disks etc supported by the shelf and at any convenient height. Get some young help to ease a tandem arrangement. Benefit of no disassembly and no fear, again.

If you are really creative, you could fashion a harness out of steel straping [need to guard against axle/axle tube droop] and hang it from the ceiling rafter that has a large screw eye installed. 3/8 diameter would be plenty big enough. You can get a come-along from Harbor Freight to ease the lifting and leave it in place.They hang hardtops this way and they are heavier than the transmission. But these come with special pulley affording a good mechanical arrangement for the liftiing. Again, no disassembly and no fulcrum plate fear. I have installed a basket chair this way and it carried a swinging load of 200 lbs until I removed it for renovation.

There. That's 3 ways to skin the cat, but maybe not suitable for your space.

[Al Zim]

TIE THE AXLES TO THE AXLE TUBE WITH A HEAVY PIECE OF WIRE. This will keep the fulctrum plates from moving . Spray the ends with LPS3 and put it in a double plastic bag witch you tie around the axle with a piece of wire. Iwould also cote the input shaft with grease. That is all you can do. In my opinion every other idea presented here is going to cause you problems.
If you are standing them on end place a 2 by 4 flat on each side of the bell housing to keep the input shaft from hitting the floor. You can remove the hoop and gain space. The rubber mounts pare probably all bad anywars. al zim