Por 15 ( I can see poss upsetting a few :-) )

356 Porsche-related discussions and questions.
Message
Author
User avatar
Glenn Ring
356 Fan
Posts: 955
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:54 pm
Tag: On theSamba.com
Location: Long Island, New York
Contact:

#16 Post by Glenn Ring »

I'd disagree that these are "cover up" products.

They certainly will not "fix" rot, the only way to fix it is to cut it out. They will take light surface rust and convert it back to solid metal and then encase the metal in a air resistant coating. I would never use one of these for a concourse restoration, but for the home hobbyist and for a "driver" they work well.

When I replaced the front beam in my car with a new one that had adjusters in it I stripped it to bare metal and left it on the lawn for a week so it would sit under the sprinkler and get a fine "patina" of rust. POR 15 and products like it will adhere better to "seasoned" metal than to new metal.
Glenn Ring

Restored Bosch Distributors

Jake Raby
356 Fan
Posts: 101
Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2008 3:48 pm

#17 Post by Jake Raby »

POR= Paint Over Rust

User avatar
Kevin Wiggins
356 Fan
Posts: 341
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2008 10:05 pm
Tag: Fight the Power!
Location: Southeastern PA

#18 Post by Kevin Wiggins »

Works for me. Like somebody said, for somebody that wants to take care of some small issues on a car that is a driver, it works great. Not for a restored car.

Not all people can afford to cut out everything for a driver.
Fight the Power!

Guest

#19 Post by Guest »

I am cutting out all the rust and there is very little in there.. to start with ( yes It is that good. Stored for 36+ years of it's life it's a dream to work on..)

Just I want to make sure it lasts as long again but with modern paints..

charles kourmpates

#20 Post by charles kourmpates »

Mark Colin wrote:Just I want to make sure it lasts as long again but with modern paints..
Mark,

Your on the right tract.

It's difficult if not impossible to keep an eye on anything covered with stuff like POR-15.

Charles

User avatar
Mark Todorovich
356 Fan
Posts: 482
Joined: Sat Mar 29, 2008 3:42 pm
Tag: Drive em
Location: St. Louis, Mo.

POR 15

#21 Post by Mark Todorovich »

I'd like to do the wheel wells of my 52. i understand it doesn't take UV exposure well . Can you shoot it with wurth undercoat to cover . Is that sufficient.
Mark Todorovich 4243
52 Coupe
56 Speedster project now underway
63 Cab?

User avatar
Emil Wojcik
356 Fan
Posts: 1528
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:20 pm
Location: Metuchen, NJ

#22 Post by Emil Wojcik »

Mark, You need to prime over the POR15 with their Tie Coat (I think that's what it's called - check the web site). Then you can paint over it with whatever you want.
Emil Wojcik
'64 356C Euro coupe
'78 MGB
'86 Jaguar XJ6 Series 3
'94 MB E420

Norm Miller
356 Fan
Posts: 2506
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2008 9:14 am
Tag: Official curmudgeon
Location: Ft Collins CO

Por 15 ( I can see poss upsetting a few :-) )

#23 Post by Norm Miller »

Mark,

The modern spray on truckbed liner can be thinned, colored and sprayed. It really looks good and I doubt that any moisture would get between it and the fender unless you park it in a pond.
Much better than the spray undercoats.

Norm

Post generated using Mail2Forum via email.
 

Alex Goodhart

Spoke to a paint chemist, it will not rust

#24 Post by Alex Goodhart »

Below is a response written before I did my 1965 C Cab. The procedure done below has lasted over 25 years with no sign of rust. I was going to do the same on my current car so I contacted the paint chemist who works with the Ropon paint. He felt that properly applied the POR-15 type products would supply even better results then the products used below and explained that they have taken over rust protection in commercial applications for rust protection. I have had 4 coats of POR-15 mixed with Insuladd applied to the underside of the car. This has been covered with Silent Running Sound deadener and finally with Wurth undercoat. The hollow areas had been previously sprayed with Tectyl (would not have done that now) this was sprayed with Rust Block that will penetrate through the Tectyl and stop any rust under it. Finally Dinitrol 3125 was sprayed also in the box sections. It is a thin product designed to penetrate into any rust and stop it. I am confident that this new process may well exceed the old one in rust prevention of an essentially rust free original panel car.

For photos of process see owners cars

http://www.356registry.com/forum/album_ ... ser_id=787






Charles,
Thank you for your response. I am not entirely unfamiliar with make a 356 that” can not rust... yes can’t”. In 1980 while living in Portland, Oregon I approached a paint chemist at the producer of industrial paints, the maker of Ropon Epoxy primer and paint. I explained the trouble with 356 Porsches and rust. I discussed an article written years ago in the PCA journal about Porsche idea for a long life car that would last for decades. Many of you may know that for years a 911 body has laid outside the factory made of uncoated stainless steel to use as a benchmark for a non-rusting shell. After this the galvanized body was made in about 1976. This was Porches attempt to end the trouble with rusting cars. After I found out that it was not technically possible to hot galvanize a 356 body I went to the paint chemist for his ideas. They after all had developed Ropon paint to prevent corrosion in the very tough conditions found in paper mills.

I explained that I was going to take the car back to a place where salt was used on the roads and I drove my car as I do now on a daily basis and was concerned about rust out. He said he could PREVENT RUST from occurring if I followed his steps exactly. The car a 1961 S-90 Cab was stripped to bare metal and dipped at Redi Strip. Just a few minuted prior to painting the underside it was acid prepped then coated with Zinc Rich paint, 95% pure zinc a commercial product used to repair galvanized fences after welding removes the zinc. This was then coated with Ropon Epoxy primer and paint; Ropon was also poured into the box sections. This produced a very hard finish that you could barely scratch with a tool. The shell on a rotisserie was painted inside and out with the Ropon paint. The bottom was then coated with Tectyl Amber undercoat (no longer made) then finally a black undercoat also made by Tectyl. The hollow areas were sprayed with Tectyl, which had previously been coated with Ropon Paint. This was then filled completely with foam. The car was completed in about 1984 and has zero rust to this date and still has the repaint done at that time and still looks almost new. It has taken a 1, 2, and 3 in Concours, including a second at the Forrest Grove Concours in the Portland area... This car cant rust as neither oxygen nor moisture will ever touch metal.

Since I am unable do what I did on my last Cab to my present one I want to make the best of what I can do. Because dipping removes all traces of rust it is the perfect surface to protect. My car an Arizona car a 1965 C Cab with about 77,777 one owner miles is in exceptional condition with almost no rust and original pan, battery box and longitudinales. I suspect there in some minimal surface rust inside the box sections. When I removed the bottom undercoat there was just a few pinheads of rust as if you left bare metal out overnight. It came off in the undercoat removal process. I have sprayed the box sections with Tectyl in the hope that any surface rust will be slowed down due to the moisture barrier produced by the Tectyl. I am still undecided about if I will or not use foam over the Tectyl as I did in my last car. My thinking was that the closed cell foam which is water resistant helps seal out the salt air here on the coast as well as moisture which can’t get to the metal due to Tectyl.

I metal prepped the bottom and applied Por-15 in two coats. I plant to have this painted with their Chassis Black then use Wurth Stone guard. I believe that this will protect the metal for a long time even if it is not a good as my last job. I may just spray some more Tectyl in the box sections and hope for the best.
Thanks for you feedback,
Alex
1965 C Cab

charles kourmpates

#25 Post by charles kourmpates »

Mark,

You still can't keep an eye on anything covered in POR-15. You have no idea what's happening underneath? :D

The Zinc primers were good products. We used Aviation Zink primers as far back as the mid 60's when I first started working on cars. Every Warbird has the use of these coatings.

My guess is it's still available today?

Probably have to dig up a copy of Trade-A-plane to find it!

Good luck with your cars.

Charles

User avatar
Emil Wojcik
356 Fan
Posts: 1528
Joined: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:20 pm
Location: Metuchen, NJ

#26 Post by Emil Wojcik »

Mark and Charles, If you apply POR15 the correct way to a properly prepared surface there is no reason you would ever need to keep an eye on what is underneath. The rust will not spread, reappear, etc. under properly applied POR15 in your lifetime or your children’s lifetime. However if you use the stuff any other way then as it was intended, all bets are off. The best argument for not using POR15 is that it is almost impossible to remove at a later date should you decide it needs to be removed (as in when you need to replace a panel due to an accident). So if concours is not your goal, and you do the work right, POR15 is a great alternative. But used as directed is key.
Emil Wojcik
'64 356C Euro coupe
'78 MGB
'86 Jaguar XJ6 Series 3
'94 MB E420

Post Reply