Axle boot dilemma

[Robert Thiemrodt]

Last summer I replaced both split axle boots. A month ago one of them developed a hairline crack and began to leak. I drained tranny and swapped it out. Tonight I enter the garage to find the other side has an identical hairline crack which is leaking. Has anyone else experienced this? Can I leave tranny fluid in the case and just pull the boot to swap out, or do I have to drain it for the third time? These were not the Volkswagen boots, is that the issue? I bought them from a reputable 356 vendor. Thoughts??

[Vic Skirmants]

You don't have to drain the trans. Jack up the one side; you will lose some oil, but not a whole lot.

[Robert Thiemrodt]

I use Sweepco tranny fluid. I lost a bit replacing first boot. Now I'm going to lose more replacing this boot. Is there an over the counter oil I can use to top off, that will be compatible? I hate to buy another whole gallon of sweepco for a few ounces.

[Vic Skirmants]

Any good brand 80/90 will do.

[Al Zim]

It is bet to put the axle boot on when the axle is straight. With a wooden block on top of your floor jack raise the car from under the torsion bar. When the car is up as far as it can go. place an extended jack stand under the axle tube. Let the car down gently dropping it can bend the tube. The axle is not straight. Remove the wheel. This will give you space to move from under the car. Cut the axle boot off. You should have purchased a axle boot we sell Empi boots. Then purchase two American wide axle boot clamps at the parts store, use your clamps as a guide in purchasing. Everything is cut off and you have wiped the axle tube. Install your boot and the bolts with a washer on each side. TIGHTEN ONLY TILL THE OPENING IS SEALED. Do not over tighten. With dikes gently distort the threads behind each nut so they will not back off. This is a lot easier than using lock tight. Install the big end first making sure the split on the axle boot seam is at the 10:30 or the 1:30 position. Push the small end of the axle boot towards the transmission for 19MM (3/4 inch) and tighten clamp. This will end the tears on the end of the axle boot. Put the wheel on and let it down. We use Swepco 201 exclusively. Yes it drips! It will make a 519/644 transmission shift like a 741. al zim 2018/01/25 Regarding your 4 post life the axle should be level or very close to level. I stick my finger in the transmission with the first joint on the edge. If the oil touches the end of my finger then the transmission is full.

[Robert Thiemrodt]

I have a 4 post lift to drive on. Do I need to still raise the axle to a level position? I've read here not to use a two post and change while the axle is drooping.Thanks Vic and Al!!

[WilliamVaughan]

Does the offending boot have some pleat to it. Or is it kinda stretched out. The portion that is visible in the photo looks a little pleat-free (stretched).

[Robert Thiemrodt]

After tightening the large clamp, I pushed on the small end to compress it some. Perhaps not enough???

[Dan Epperly]

Sounds like the crappy Chinese ones.
I use these, they last, made in Germany.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai ... 111501153A

[Harlan Halsey]

It seems like every 10 years or so the axel boots begin to crack. I always used the original VW non-split boots installed with a bit of compression when jacked up. I attributed this failure to poor materials. (My Mercedes have axel boots which flex with every wheel revolution, yet last indefinitely.) Lately, I have been using Elring brand split boots and they seem to hold up pretty well so far. I think Elring is a German supplier.

[Al Zim]

Zim's has not seen the crappy Chinese axle boots. We have stock two manufacturers of the boots Febi manufactured in (western) Germany and Empi probably manufactured in China. The Febi are made of rubber and they are still using the molds that are stamped western Germany. The boot is more ply able then the Empi but the sealing area is not as well defined. Without care the bolts on the sealing surface can distort this area. The Empi is a plastic derivative material. It is thicker than the Febi and crisper in the design of the clamping surface. My preference is for the Empi. al zim

[Robert Thiemrodt]

Is it considered a must to have the axle totally horizontal? Or am I ok with the car being on a drive on four post lift? Also, when trying to compress the boot, I don't find I'm gaining much, due to the rigidity of the boot where all the screws are that close the boot shut. I'd like to get it right. I fear the vendor may have supplied me with a second set of boots at no charge, when I may not have compressed the boot enough. The boots did fail with only about 300 miles on them, while on nice level roads.

[WilliamVaughan]

Where is the right place to put the split boot sealing strip? Front? Back? Top? I guess top is not the right place to put it. No flexure. More like a rigid beam in compression and tension. (Mine currently has the non-split boots on it.)

[Wes Bender]

Top is NOT the place to put it. Consider the joint to be a strip that can bend easily only in one axis. Put the joint either at the front or back. Maybe elevated slightly from horizontal, if at all.